St. Lucia

When you hear “mountain biking in the rainforest for four hours,” what do you think of? Do you imagine yourself riding in a van for almost two hours roundtrip while your tour guides say absolutely nothing? Do you visualize yourself riding a rusty bike up steep pavement and down a road covered in large rocks and gravel for 45 minutes through a partially developed portion of the rainforest before realizing that you’ve ended up right back where you started riding, only to abandon your bike and hike ten minutes to go swimming under a waterfall? And, when you hear “swimming under a waterfall,” do you visualize yourself standing in knee-deep water (at its deepest) under what could either be a waterfall or a person who has a hard time preventing his/her spittle from hitting you in the face? If so, then I have just the tour for you. The highlight of today’s tour was stopping briefly at a beautiful overlook showing me where I should have spent my time today. Sigh.




I am tiring of cruise ship food, by the way. They really try. They really do. But I just want to cook for myself now, and not pour a ton of oil, butter, or cream into every dish. I also want a burrito from Chipotle. Mmm, Chipotle.

After a lackluster lunch on the ship, I headed out to Castries, the capital of St. Lucia and the city to which our ship is currently attached. Amongst all the cookie cutter items in the local craft market, I found and bought a carving of a mother and child that I think will look pretty sweet in my future office. It’s not that big, but it’s unique, and very culturally sensitive. DePaul, I’m doing you proud.

My last stop before returning to the ship to eat the world’s worst avocado and tomato quesadilla (free room service is pretty sweet, yet sad when you realize that the only two items that are decent are the fruit and cheese plates), I used my Lonely Planet guidebook to help me find the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. It was unlike any other church I’d been in, both in terms of it’s ceiling and brightly painted walls. It seemed…truly Caribbean. I wish I could remember the fancy terms I learned in AP Art History back in high school to discuss it further, but sadly, I cannot. Suffice it to say that it was a magnificent structure, at least on the inside; from the outside it looked as though the building would topple from a weak sneeze. It also held a unique spirit that I haven’t felt previously.

Food of the Day: Coconut plucked from the tree, smashed against a rock, and served fresh.

Barbados

Barbados, the easternmost island in the Caribbean, is unique in that it was created by the pushing up of tectonic plates (containing mostly limestone and coral) as opposed to volcanic activity like its other island neighbors. One result from this was Harrison’s Cave, my first stop this morning. Nearly 350 years of unbroken British rule (ended back in the 1960s) manifested itself through the guide’s accent, which had a tinge of cockney. The tour itself was kind of a yawner. I rode in a tram down manufactured tunnels and was only allowed to disembark twice. Not that I wanted to spelunk through tiny tunnels on my belly and crawl around with a head lantern, but come on. There were even sensor-timed lights that turn on when we entered a cavern and turn off when we left. At one point, the guide turned off all the lights and said, “This is what a cave looks like without any lights. It’s very dark.” Oh, really? Really, cave guide? That’s so weird, because in my mind, caves always have an ambient glow from all the lava lamps that grow up from the ground. Those things down there are lava lamps, right? And I always thought that caves had windows, just like my house. Thanks for helping me understand that caves are underground structures that are generally filled with stifling darkness.

My camera gave me some serious grief, too. Here’s a handful of pictures that didn’t turn out blurry. Please note the ambient glow provided by the beautiful lava lamps.

Next, I boarded a 4x4 with some folks from the ship, including Skip and Sue, the two Americans who sit at dinner with me. We’ve gotten to know each other over the past several days and they’re great. Sue is a counselor at a local high school, and Skip is a retired businessman who introduced me to chilled soups. They do a ton of service in their local community and worldwide.

“Call 4BY-FOUR Today!”

Once the vehicles arrived at the Barbados Wildlife Reserve, we disembarked and traversed brick paths constructed from bricks brought over by the British, who would leave them in Barbados and bring back sugar to the U.K. The reserve houses a variety of animals, including tortoises, deer, iguanas, mara, rabbits, peacocks, parrots, and a variety of other birds. In fact, a mara was born earlier today and I happened upon it sneaking away from its parents. Super cute.

The Baby Mara Says, “Hello World!”

Unfortunately, the planned highlight of our trip, the green monkeys, which are responsible for 70% of the world’s polio vaccine, didn’t show up to feed. The reserve had a lone monkey sitting in a pen, and he came down to watch us as we walked past. When I spoke to him in the voice I use when I speak to Matou, my cat, he hopped on over to make some clicking sounds and inspect his left foot. We had an excellent conversation.

On the way back to the ship, we drove along the eastern coast of the island and stopped momentarily at Martin’s Bay. We also used our 4x4s to do some genuine off-roading (finally!) through a series of sugar cane fields. All-in-all, a pretty okay day.

Sea Grapes

Martin’s Bay

Food of the Day: Bananas Foster

Grenada

What a day! During the eight hour tour I booked, I was exposed to the finest spices and horticulture for which Grenada is famous, including nutmeg, cocoa, plantain, papaya, soursop, grindy, mango, banana, loofa, clove, bay leaf, cinnamon, allspice, calabash, tonka bean, and sopadilla. Our tour began with a drive through St. George’s (the capital city) and a stop at Concord Waterfall, which wasn’t particularly impressive, yet beautiful.

The Galaxy Awaits in Grenada

Concord Waterfall

Next, we stopped at Dougladston Estates, where I observed the process of cocoa harvesting. Here, let me show you. First, the cocoa fruit is harvested…

…next, the white, slimy pods are placed in a dark wooden box and covered with leaves. A fermentation process takes place. No, really, it does. Our tour guide pulled some out of the box and we touched them…they were very warm. Once that’s over with, they are placed out in the sun to dry…

…then sent off to a processing plant to be ground up. The guide broke one open for me and I ate it. It tasted like strong, dark, somewhat bittersweet chocolate. It was awesome. Next, we headed to the Grenada Cooperative Nutmeg Association. Oh, you want to know how nutmeg is processed? Okay. I will show you. Let’s get some of our tools together:

Start by cutting open the fruit…

…and removing the mace (the red webby thing). This can be used for all sorts of things, like tea and cosmetics.

Now, set the nutmeg out to dry (but not in the sunshine)…

…wow, it’s taking a long time for the nutmeg to dry. I think I’ll look out the window for several weeks (for reals, this is what I saw when I looked out the window)…

…ahh. The nutmeg is ready. Toss it down a chute where the shell is broken. The ladies are waiting at the bottom to separate the shell from the nutmeg inside. This lady didn’t do a very good job, but you get the idea…

…okay, now bag ‘em up, paint the name of the destination on the bag, and ship it off!

On our way out of the nutmeg processing plant, a kind woman named Dorothy showed us her wares (various combinations of local spices) and asked if we were interested in buying anything. Prior to the start of the tour, the guide informed us that his wife sells spices and that she would be waiting for us at the end of the day (i.e., spices will be purchased from my wife). I promptly checked my bag for my wallet to see how much cash I had, only to discover that I had left it locked up in my room’s safe. Awesome. I come to the Isle of Spice and I can’t buy any. So, when Dorothy asked me if I wanted to buy her spices, I informed her that no, unfortunately, I could not, because I left my wallet on the ship, but thank you. She immediately pulled me over to her cart, reached in, and pulled out a plastic neon orange martini glass filled with spices. With her other hand (now that she had let go of my arm), she reached over and pulled a beautiful necklace made from spices down and put both of them in my hands. I tried explaining to Dorothy that, no, these were lovely, but I didn’t have a way to pay for them. Dorothy responded by stating that “nobody comes to the Isle of Spice and leaves without any spices.” I thanked her for her generosity but insisted that someone in my tour group would probably lend me money later and I would be fine. Again, Dorothy insisted that I take the spices and quickly ushered me back to my tour bus, which took off to our next destination.

Although my interaction with Dorothy lasted but a few short moments, I spent much of the day reflecting upon our exchange. At first, I felt terrible for saying anything about my wallet; I mean, I didn’t intend for her to give me something for free. I should have politely declined (but I tried to!), then she would still have those items to sell. Throughout the tour, we drove through areas of severe poverty. Hurricane Ivan crippled this island in 2004. 90% of the nutmeg was destroyed, and it takes upwards of 20 years to get quality nutmeg from a mature tree (although adequate nutmeg can be produced in 8). Cocoa, banana, and other trade was severely diminished. Churches ruined (according to our tour guide, Dominica is a very religious island). Homes obliterated. And here was Dorothy, filling both my hands with beautiful, aromatic spices without a second’s thought.

I want to do something special for Dorothy. I want to do something special for all the people of Grenada. All along our tour, so many people smiled and waved at us. How can you find so much joy when all around you your world is falling apart?

Dorothy, I will do good things with your spices. My dinner guests and friends will hear about you and the people of Grenada when I cook with them. I will try to do your island justice when I write about it in my blog, as I know that tourism is your island’s only stable form of income. Dorothy, thank you for sharing your spices and your island with me. And, because I’m guessing that the customs officer won’t allow me to bring your necklace into the U.S. (something about nuts or seeds or some nonsense), I’m taking a picture of it here so I’ll always remember it.

On our way to lunch, we stopped at Carib’s Leap. Carib’s Leap is the site where the French overtook the native Carib tribe and forced them to either leap to their deaths or be shot and killed. Most tribal members elected to jump.

Lunch at Helvellyn House overlooked a beautiful scene, much like the one from the nutmeg processing plant. We were served authentic local cuisine, the content of which I can’t completely remember (a starchy, potato thing, mahi mahi with curry, delicious barbecued chicken, green papaya gratin). It was all very delicious. I think that it would be an excellent place to host a wedding reception, but I’m pretty sure Grenada doesn’t have an LDS temple.

A quick trip to a rum distillery (not so interesting for me, but the others seemed to like it) and a drive through Grand Etang Forest Reserve, and we were back to the ship…just in time! I turned around and got a parting shot of the island just before the boat left the dock. Grenada is a unique experience…you should definitely check it out.

Foods of the Day: Dorothy’s Spices and Chilled Strawberry Soup

Do You Sea What I Sea?

Nothing much to say about today. It was our last full sea day; from this point forward, we will be sailing overnight and arriving at a new port each morning. I am pleased to report, however, that I loved all five courses at dinner, a first thus far on the ship. Kudos to the chefs!

Foods of the Day: (1) Tomato and Arugula Crostini with Kalamata Balsamic Vinaigrette, (2) Chilled Roasted Beets, Feta Cheese and Frisée, (3) Chilled Black Cherry Soup, (4) Drunken Shrimp Linguini with Ancho Chile Sauce, Cilantro, and Crispy Plantain Ribbons, and (5)Warm Anjou Pear Gratin with Honey Sabayon

Curaçao

I could live in Curaçao one day. I really liked it. After sleeping in a little late, I walked to the front deck and looked out over a brightly-painted plethora of storefronts and government buildings in Willemstad. Shortly after arriving at the Queen Emma Bridge (a floating bridge that moves back and forth throughout the day to allow boats to pass), a downpour soaked everyone and everything in a matter of seconds. The storm soon ended and I crossed over from Otrobanda to Punda, two neighborhoods within Willemstad. I stopped at the outdoor Central Market to browse and found myself buying some “Arabian Formula” health supplement. The box promised to turn me into a muscular Arabian gentleman who has ladies hanging off him. I’ve never been a muscular Arabian gentleman who has ladies hanging off him, so I’m super excited to witness my transformation.

Otrobanda

Queen Emma Bridge Leads to Punda

Punda After the Storm

Speaking of supplements, several people tried to sell me marijuana and cocaine. What’s that all about? It wasn’t even covert. A simple, “Hey, you wanna buy some coke or some weed?” Maybe they saw me buy some Arabian Formula and thought I might be looking for the harder stuff. What’s in my Arabian Formula anyway? Ginger, ginseng, onion, garlic, honey, molasses, ethyl alcohol and distilled water…ewww, I don’t want to drink that. I guess I’ll stay a slightly pudgy White guy with ladies hanging around him.

Next, I headed to the Mikvé Israel-Emanual Synagogue (also known as The Snoa), the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere. The synagogue was beautiful, and it was the first time I’d ever worn a yarmakule (men were required to cover their heads before entering). The Snoa also had a museum on Jewish history in the Netherlands Antilles that was rather interesting and housed relics from the 14th century onward.

Mikvé Israel-Emanual Synagogue

My journey took me past the Floating Market and across the Wilhelmina Bridge to Scharloo, where I witnessed streets of once-decadent mansions now fallen into disrepair. Near the Waaigat on Van der Brandhofstraat was the island’s Maritime Museum, chronicling the island’s history of colonization and war (mainly between the Dutch, French, and British), slave trade in the West Indies, privateering, and piracy. Overall, the museum was well-designed and briskly air-conditioned. I can’t believe that less than a week ago, I was complaining that my apartment was too cold and now I’m relieved to find a building with air conditioning. It’s very strange.

Maritime Museum

Streets of Willemstad

On my walk back to the ship, I passed a bright red building which housed the Gouverneur de Rouville Restaurant & Café. Inside was an architecturally beautiful setting and the best sandwich I’ve ever had. No really, it was. Tender, tender chicken, deliciously spicy and sweet peanut sauce, crisp grilled onions and red bell pepper, and red leaf lettuce gently nestled between two halves of a crusty-yet-soft roll. Mmmm.

Gouverneur de Rouville

The Best Sandwich Ever

Why can’t we stay in Curaçao just one day longer? According to the tour guidebook, Curaçao has an aquarium, herbal medicine garden, snorkeling, diving, beautiful beaches, kayaking, hiking, and so much more. As I write this entry, I can feel the ship’s engine’s start to rumble as the Celebrity Galaxy causes the Queen Emma bridge to be moved once more, this time for us. I decide to go out on deck to say a proper goodbye to the island, only to find rows of cars honking and groups of people waving farewell as the sea mist splashes up from all sides. Goodbye, Curaçao…I hope to be back soon.

Food of the Day: Asian Chicken Sandwich (from Gouverneur de Rouville Restaurant & Café)