Grenada

What a day! During the eight hour tour I booked, I was exposed to the finest spices and horticulture for which Grenada is famous, including nutmeg, cocoa, plantain, papaya, soursop, grindy, mango, banana, loofa, clove, bay leaf, cinnamon, allspice, calabash, tonka bean, and sopadilla. Our tour began with a drive through St. George’s (the capital city) and a stop at Concord Waterfall, which wasn’t particularly impressive, yet beautiful.

The Galaxy Awaits in Grenada

Concord Waterfall

Next, we stopped at Dougladston Estates, where I observed the process of cocoa harvesting. Here, let me show you. First, the cocoa fruit is harvested…

…next, the white, slimy pods are placed in a dark wooden box and covered with leaves. A fermentation process takes place. No, really, it does. Our tour guide pulled some out of the box and we touched them…they were very warm. Once that’s over with, they are placed out in the sun to dry…

…then sent off to a processing plant to be ground up. The guide broke one open for me and I ate it. It tasted like strong, dark, somewhat bittersweet chocolate. It was awesome. Next, we headed to the Grenada Cooperative Nutmeg Association. Oh, you want to know how nutmeg is processed? Okay. I will show you. Let’s get some of our tools together:

Start by cutting open the fruit…

…and removing the mace (the red webby thing). This can be used for all sorts of things, like tea and cosmetics.

Now, set the nutmeg out to dry (but not in the sunshine)…

…wow, it’s taking a long time for the nutmeg to dry. I think I’ll look out the window for several weeks (for reals, this is what I saw when I looked out the window)…

…ahh. The nutmeg is ready. Toss it down a chute where the shell is broken. The ladies are waiting at the bottom to separate the shell from the nutmeg inside. This lady didn’t do a very good job, but you get the idea…

…okay, now bag ‘em up, paint the name of the destination on the bag, and ship it off!

On our way out of the nutmeg processing plant, a kind woman named Dorothy showed us her wares (various combinations of local spices) and asked if we were interested in buying anything. Prior to the start of the tour, the guide informed us that his wife sells spices and that she would be waiting for us at the end of the day (i.e., spices will be purchased from my wife). I promptly checked my bag for my wallet to see how much cash I had, only to discover that I had left it locked up in my room’s safe. Awesome. I come to the Isle of Spice and I can’t buy any. So, when Dorothy asked me if I wanted to buy her spices, I informed her that no, unfortunately, I could not, because I left my wallet on the ship, but thank you. She immediately pulled me over to her cart, reached in, and pulled out a plastic neon orange martini glass filled with spices. With her other hand (now that she had let go of my arm), she reached over and pulled a beautiful necklace made from spices down and put both of them in my hands. I tried explaining to Dorothy that, no, these were lovely, but I didn’t have a way to pay for them. Dorothy responded by stating that “nobody comes to the Isle of Spice and leaves without any spices.” I thanked her for her generosity but insisted that someone in my tour group would probably lend me money later and I would be fine. Again, Dorothy insisted that I take the spices and quickly ushered me back to my tour bus, which took off to our next destination.

Although my interaction with Dorothy lasted but a few short moments, I spent much of the day reflecting upon our exchange. At first, I felt terrible for saying anything about my wallet; I mean, I didn’t intend for her to give me something for free. I should have politely declined (but I tried to!), then she would still have those items to sell. Throughout the tour, we drove through areas of severe poverty. Hurricane Ivan crippled this island in 2004. 90% of the nutmeg was destroyed, and it takes upwards of 20 years to get quality nutmeg from a mature tree (although adequate nutmeg can be produced in 8). Cocoa, banana, and other trade was severely diminished. Churches ruined (according to our tour guide, Dominica is a very religious island). Homes obliterated. And here was Dorothy, filling both my hands with beautiful, aromatic spices without a second’s thought.

I want to do something special for Dorothy. I want to do something special for all the people of Grenada. All along our tour, so many people smiled and waved at us. How can you find so much joy when all around you your world is falling apart?

Dorothy, I will do good things with your spices. My dinner guests and friends will hear about you and the people of Grenada when I cook with them. I will try to do your island justice when I write about it in my blog, as I know that tourism is your island’s only stable form of income. Dorothy, thank you for sharing your spices and your island with me. And, because I’m guessing that the customs officer won’t allow me to bring your necklace into the U.S. (something about nuts or seeds or some nonsense), I’m taking a picture of it here so I’ll always remember it.

On our way to lunch, we stopped at Carib’s Leap. Carib’s Leap is the site where the French overtook the native Carib tribe and forced them to either leap to their deaths or be shot and killed. Most tribal members elected to jump.

Lunch at Helvellyn House overlooked a beautiful scene, much like the one from the nutmeg processing plant. We were served authentic local cuisine, the content of which I can’t completely remember (a starchy, potato thing, mahi mahi with curry, delicious barbecued chicken, green papaya gratin). It was all very delicious. I think that it would be an excellent place to host a wedding reception, but I’m pretty sure Grenada doesn’t have an LDS temple.

A quick trip to a rum distillery (not so interesting for me, but the others seemed to like it) and a drive through Grand Etang Forest Reserve, and we were back to the ship…just in time! I turned around and got a parting shot of the island just before the boat left the dock. Grenada is a unique experience…you should definitely check it out.

Foods of the Day: Dorothy’s Spices and Chilled Strawberry Soup